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Toni

Arjahn Cox has created a four-look collection based on the desires and needs of four different muses. Muses were found via general survey, chosen based on their responses, interviewed, measured and designed for, leading to final garments and outcomes.

 

This page highlights the work for and the experience of one muse: Toni

Interview

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Full Video

Each Muse was interviewed to find out their desires and needs in reference to their clothing choices and self-expression. The desires and needs expressed in these interviews were then used to inform the clothing that was created for the muses. 

Design Process

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Designs were made from a mix of Toni’s stated preferences from their interview and Arjahn’s interpretation of their wants and needs relating to Toni's fashion choices and identity.

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Design Information Derived from Interview

In their interview, Toni expressed that they do not see their fashion choices as directly related to their gender. They also expressed self assurance in their identity as they expressed that they rarely feel invalid in their identity as a non-binary person.

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Focusing on patterns and a mix of femininity and masculinity

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Moodboard

Excerpt from the Muse Book for Toni about their identity not necessarily relating to their fashion choices

Interview Excerpts

Excerpt from Toni's Muse Book about their security in their identity

Design Iterations

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Final Design

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Final Lineup

Design Approval

In keeping with the intent of prioritizing the wearer’s experience, muses were asked to approve designs and to make sure they would be comfortable wearing what was designed for them.

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Making Process

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Top Pattern Planning

Due to the muses’ body types being excluded from the sample size and binary gender model of fashion design, all patterns were made without the use of slopers and made using the measurements of the muse.

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Skirt Pattern Planning

Vest Pattern
Planning

Fitting 

2nd Fitting

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Materiality

Materiality was used to meet Toni's desires of patterns. The main method used was patchwork out of cotton fabric and canvas fabrics as well as pleating of canvas fabric

Texture Ideas

Materiality Goal

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Envisioned to use layered pieces of cotton fabric and pleating for the vest

Vest Pleating

Vest is made using 4 front pattern pieces and 2 back pattern pieces to provide more structure and cleaner finishes. The pleated top of the vest is disconnected from the bottom.

Muslin Samples

Final Fabric was a brown canvas

Shirt Fabric Preparation 

Fabric was soaked in soda ash to prepare it for dry brush dying,

 

*if repeating the process, the fabric would be soaked after the shirt pieces are sewn.

Shirt Dry Brush Dying

After the shirt fabric was prepared for dyeing with soda ash and the pieces were sewn together, the dyeing process began. The dye was applied using the dry brushing method: painting the dye onto dry fabric.

Due to the fabric not being 100% cotton, it took about 6 rounds of brushing to reach this level of pigmentation. however, some of it washed out.

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Upper Skirt Patch Work

Front Second Layer

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Side Pattern

Front

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First the designs were drawn onto the pattern pieces and then cut out of fabrics in alternating shades of brown.

Back Pattern

Final Photos

Photos by Lucre Visual Media

Photos were taken with the motive
of muses being themselves and feeling comfortable and confident in the garments. Photos were taken at a mansion in New York with the intent of showing the muses in a grandiose environment and taking up space in a place that is historically exclusionary.

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